Archive for the 'Detailing Tips and Tricks' Category

Top 10 Tips for Improving Your Fuel Economy

Thursday, June 12th, 2008

Top 10 Tips for Improving Your Fuel Economy
By Tara Baukus Mello

*Taken from Edmunds.com

Filling up is a fact of every driver’s life, but for some drivers it is a necessary evil. If you are one of those people who gulps every time you have to fill up your vehicle, there’s good news: there are some simple things you can do to improve your fuel economy no matter what type of vehicle you drive.

Monitoring your average fuel economy regularly is a good idea, too. (Some vehicles have a handy computer that computes this for you.) If you notice a significant change, then something has changed with your vehicle.

Here are 10 things you can do today to get better gas mileage right away.

  1. Follow the Recommended Maintenance
    A vehicle that is well maintained means it will operate with greater efficiency. This not only improves your overall vehicle performance, but it will improve your fuel economy as well. Fouled spark plugs, a dirty air filter or clogged fuel filter will all affect your fuel economy. According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), replacing a clogged air filter can increase your mileage by 10 percent, while replacing an oxygen sensor could result in an improvement as high as 40 percent. Proper maintenance also means using the right octane gas and the recommended grade of motor oil. Using the recommended types for your vehicle will give you optimum fuel economy — and can save you money as well. Check your owner’s manual for your vehicle’s recommendations and have maintenance performed regularly by a dealer or reputable mechanic.
  2. Keep Your Tires Properly Inflated
    Underinflated tires require more energy to roll, which translates into more frequent fill-ups. You can improve your fuel economy by about 3.3 percent if you keep your tires inflated properly, according to the DOE. The psi number noted on the sidewall of your tires is the maximum pressure of the tire and is not the proper inflation level for your car. Your vehicle manufacturer will list the recommended tire pressure in your owner’s manual or a sticker on the doorjamb of the driver-side door. Buy a tire-pressure gauge and check your tires monthly, adding air as necessary.
  3. Take a Load Off
    Heavier vehicles require more energy to move, so carrying around excess weight will also affect your mileage. Empty out your trunk (or even your backseat) of unnecessary items. An extra 100 pounds in the trunk will reduce your fuel economy by 1 to 2 percent in the typical vehicle. If you have a roof rack or roof carrier, install it on your vehicle only when absolutely necessary. Not only does the carrier add extra weight, but it also increases the aerodynamic drag on the vehicle, which further contributes to a loss of fuel economy.
  4. Don’t Drive Aggressively
    We’re not talking road rage here, but the type of driving many people do when they are in a rush. Mashing the accelerator pedal from a stoplight, braking hard and speeding all contribute to a decrease in fuel economy. Give yourself extra time to get to your destination and think “steady and smooth” as you drive. On surface streets, driving at the speed limit will give you mostly green lights, which improves your gas mileage as well as reduces the wear on your brakes. On the highway, the DOE says that every 5 mph you drive over 65 mph represents a 7-percent decrease in fuel economy.
  5. Use the Highest Gear Possible
    Cars are designed to start in the lowest gear possible because that’s where they have the most power, but that power translates to an increase in fuel consumption. To improve your fuel economy, drive in the highest gear possible when you are cruising at a steady speed, such as on the highway. If your vehicle has an automatic transmission with a “sport” mode, it’s most likely that this is a computer program designed to shift later (and therefore keep you in a lower gear longer). While this gives you greater performance, driving in “sport” mode will also decrease your fuel economy.
  6. Use Cruise Control — Selectively
    Using cruise control can improve your gas mileage by helping you maintain a steady speed, but only if you are driving on mostly flat roads. If you are driving in hilly terrain, using cruise control typically causes your vehicle to speed up faster (to maintain the preset speed) than it would if you were operating the accelerator yourself. Before you push that cruise control button, think about the terrain ahead.
  7. Think Clean
    Keeping your car washed and waxed improves aerodynamics and therefore affects fuel economy. Engineer Tom Wagner, Jr. reported to Stretcher.com (as in stretching your dollars) a 7-percent improvement in fuel economy, from 15 to 16 mpg, during a 1,600-mile road trip.
  8. Avoid Excessive Idling
    When a car is idling, it is using fuel, yet not going anywhere. This translates to 0 mpg. When you leave your car running while you are waiting in line at the drive-thru, or as you wait outside your kids’ school, you are wasting fuel. It is more efficient to turn the engine off while you wait and then restart the car. If that’s not practical (like in the line at McDonald’s), then park the car and go inside instead.
  9. Think Before You Vent(ilate)
    Running your air conditioner does cause your vehicle to consume more fuel, but driving with your windows rolled down can be even worse due to the increase of drag on the vehicle. If you are driving slowly, such as around town or in city traffic, then you are better off leaving your windows open, if at all possible. For highway driving, roll up the windows and turn the air conditioning on.
  10. Combine Your Errands
    A little planning can make a big difference in fuel economy. When your engine is cold, it uses more fuel than when it is warm. Combining errands can improve your gas mileage because your engine will be warm for more of the trip. It might also mean you travel less total miles. According to the DOE, several short trips all begun with a cold start can use twice as much fuel as a single, longer trip that covers the same distance.

Save HUGE with Danase ebay Auctions!

Monday, March 31st, 2008

Here are some eBay auctions I put together to clearance out some items that I had laying around. All items are brand new.

Click here for Danase eBay Auctions 

Cyclo Polisher w/ Danase Swirl Abolishers vs. Police Car

Sunday, March 2nd, 2008

Here is a test I did last weekend to show how a Cyclo Polisher can correct using the Danase Swirl Abolishers.  The end result is not 100% perfect but I think it shows very well what the Cyclo can do.

Picture descriptions:
#1 - Before shot
#2 - Before shot
#3 - Before shot
#4 - Cyclo Polisher with orange pad and Danase SAIII
#5 - Cyclo Polisher with green pad and Danase SAII
#6 - Cyclo Polisher with white pad and Danase SAI (I know the tape on the trunk says “green pad” but it was in fact the white pad.)
#7 - Cyclo Polisher with white pad and Danase Wet Glaze
#8 - Hand application and Danase Paint SealantDanae Swirl Abolishers

Drive Your Car To Death - Save $31,000!

Tuesday, February 26th, 2008

Drive your car to death, save $31,000

(CNNMoney.com) — By keeping your car for 15 years, or 225,000 miles of driving, you could save nearly $31,000, according to Consumer Reports magazine. That’s compared to the cost of buying an identical model every five years, which is roughly the rate at which most car owners trade in their vehicles. In its annual national auto survey, the magazine found 6,769 readers who had logged more than 200,000 miles on their cars. Their cars included a 1990 Lexus LS400 with 332,000 miles and a 1994 Ford Ranger pick-up that had gone 488,000 miles. Honda Civic Consumer Reports calls the Honda Civic a “Good bet” to make it to 200,000 miles. Calculating the costs involved in buying a new Honda Civic EX every five years for 15 years - including depreciation, taxes, fees and insurance - the magazine estimated it would cost $20,500 more than it would have cost to simply maintain one car for the same period.  Added to that, the magazine factored in $10,300 in interest that could have been earned on that money, assuming a five percent interest rate and a three percent inflation rate, over that time. The magazine found similar savings with other models. To have much hope of making it to 200,000 miles, a car has to be well maintained, of course. The magazine recommends several steps to help your car see it through. * Follow the maintenance guide in your owner’s manual and make needed repairs promptly. * Use only the recommended types of fluids, including oil and transmission fluids. * Check under the hood regularly. Listen for strange sounds, sniff for odd smells and look for fraying or bulges in pipes or belts. Also, get a vehicle service manual. They’re available at most auto parts stores or your dealership. * Clean the car carefully inside and out. This not only helps the car’s appearance but can prevent premature rust. Vacuuming the inside also prevents premature carpet wear from sand and grit. * Buy a safe, reliable car. Buying a car with the latest safety equipment makes it more likely you’ll feel as safe in your aging car as a newer model. The magazine recommends several cars that have the best shot at reaching the 200,000 mile mark and a few that, according to its data, aren’t likely to make it. All the cars in the magazine’s “Good bets” list are manufactured by Honda  and Toyota. (One extreme example was not enough to get the Ford Ranger onto the list.) The “Bad bets” are a mixture of European models and two Nissans.

Consumer Reports’ “Good bets” for making 200,000 miles: Honda Civic, Honda CR-V, Honda Element, Lexus ES, Lexus LS, Toyota 4Runner, Toyota Highlander, Toyota Land Cruiser, Toyota Prius, Toyota RAV4

Consumer Reports’ “Bad bets” for making 200,000 miles: BMW 7-series, Infiniti QX56, Jaguar X-type, V8-powered Mercedes-Benz M-class, Mercedes-Benz SL, Nissan Armada, Nissan Titan, Volkswagen Touareg, V6-powered Volvo XC90.

How long should I wait to wax after a fresh paint job?

Friday, January 25th, 2008

This question comes up a lot.  “How long should I wait to wax after a fresh paint job?”.  My answer is 60-90 days.  I once made the mistake of listening to a shop that painted my car and insisted that I wax the paint to protect it right away.  I got home from the shop and waxed the car.  What was my outcome?  The clearcoat NEVER fully cured.  A year after the clear was still so soft that you could scratch the paint by dropping a cotton ball on it.  This led me to do some researching on my own, something I should of done before listening to the paint shop.  After contacting several of the large automotive paint manufacturers I got answers from 30 to 90 days of waiting for the paint to cure before waxing or sealing.  My advice is 60-90 days.

“What about a brand new car?”  This is a totally different story.  Brand new cars on the dealer lots are perfectly fine to wax the second they roll off the assembly line.  Why?  Because the paint and process used on the assembly line is not the same as what a body/paint shop uses.  Factory paint jobs are baked at extremely high temperatures to cure the paint on the assembly lines and the paint used is not the same as what a shop uses. 

 ”You said to wait 60-90 days after I get my car from the paint shop but the shop said they baked the paint so I can wax right away right?”  NO!  Most shops will bake the paint after painting but their bake lamps are nowhere near the same as the factory uses.  The shop bakes the paint so the work can be handled faster.

Washing in the Winter Wonderland….

Thursday, December 13th, 2007

Here are some simple steps for washing your vehicles in the garage during the winter months…for those of us that actually get winter and don’t have palm trees growing in our front yards. ;)

You can wash your car without using a hose by using a car wash like Optimum No Rinse

  1. Simply fill a bucket of warm water and No Rinse per the the manufacturer’s directions.  Be sure to use a Grit Guard in the bottom of your bucket.
  2. Using a Lake Country Ulti-Mit saturated with your No Rinse wash mixture start at the top and begin to wash the vehicle.
  3. Once the top is washed simply dry it off using a Danase Water Devourer.

Wash one panel at a time and dry it before moving on to the next panel. 

Always make sure to start at the top most part of the vehicle and work your way down.

Be sure to constantly keep your Ulti-Mit saturated with your wash solution.

Follow these tips for a warmer and less messy way of washing your vehicles this winter.

 

Sincerely,

Bob Daniels

Why should I bother taking care of my car’s exterior? I wash it once a month isn’t that enough?

Tuesday, December 4th, 2007

 Time and time again I hear a similar comment from someone.  “I wash my car once a month why should I wash it more?”  Or “I wax my car once a year, that is good enough.”.  However, these people don’t hesitate to change their oil every 3,000 miles, rotate their tires, and change their transmission fluid and so on. 

 

Your vehicle’s exterior care should be no different than the mechanical side of it.  Your vehicles paint and body is one of the most expensive parts of your vehicle and to not take care of it is crazy!

 

“Why is a dirty car bad for my paint and body?” 

Because the dirt sitting on your car holds moisture and moisture, as we all know, is a big part of rust formation.  Also, you never know what that dirt is or what else besides water is absorb into the dirt that is just sitting on your paint and holding there.  Maybe it is corrosive road salt, factory pollutants, brake dust, acid rain, and so on.  Keeping your vehicle clean will keep the body in great shape, will keep it looking like new, and will help hold the resale value.

 

“Why should I wax my vehicle?”

Well, for one, because a good wax or sealant will help protect your paint from the above mentioned items as well as UV rays.  And a vehicle with a good coat of wax or sealant will be easier to wash because dirt will not stick to it as well as on a vehicle without a wax or sealer.  Depending on certain variables your wax or sealant will usually last 3-6 months.  If your vehicle is garage kept most of the time and never sees rain expect 6 months.  If it is a daily driver sitting in elements 24/7 expect 3 months of protection.

 

“I take my car to the automatic car wash all of the time, is that ok?”

Well, that all depends.  Let’s talk about some of the car washes that exist.  First we have the worst kind possible…the ones where the car goes through and all of these brushes smack your vehicle to death.  I don’t care how clean the brushes are or what the wash owners tells you, these ARE scratching your paint.  Also the cleaning chemicals are usually very harsh and will strip your wax or sealant.  Stop using them if you want an A+ finish on your car.  Next we have the touchless automatic washes, usually found at the self serve car washes.  These are the better of the two.  However, the touchless washes also use harsh chemicals to clean your vehicles and they too usually strip wax and sealants.  When I say “harsh” I am not saying they will hurt your car, they are just harsh on the protective coat you applied.  That is how they have to be in order to get your car clean with minimal work.

 

“I paid my dealer $2000 for this special wax and it last 5 years!”

Your dealer is a con and you fell for one of the oldest cons in the book.  Mark my word that no wax will last that long.  You are basically paying for a paint warranty of some sort.  If you paint doesn’t come with a good warranty in the first place don’t buy the vehicle. 

Winter paint protection…

Tuesday, October 30th, 2007

Well, I put off saying the “W” word for as long as I could.  But the fact of the matter is that winter is coming for a lot of us and there is no escaping it.  I get asked by a lot of customers about what they should use on their paint for winter protection.  My top two recommendations are both from Collinite…  Collinte Paste Fleetwax 885 and Collinite Insulator Wax 845.  Both offer long and tough protection against the snow and road salt. 

New detailing forums!

Thursday, October 18th, 2007

We have started new and improved detailing forums!  The new forums are located at, DetailingForums.com .  Please feel free to stop by and register!

Safe Washing Techniques

Thursday, October 11th, 2007

Below I have outlined some helpful washing techniques that will help reduce marring and scratching of your vehicles paint. All of the washing products mentioned in this article can be found at Danase Detailing Supply.

 

Proper Washing Tools:
Wash your vehicle by hand with a good wool or chenille wash mitt or a chenille covered sponge.

 

Always make sure to use a good quality automotive shampoo/wash and definitely NOT dish soap. I hear people brag about getting a gallon of soap at the local parts store for 2 bucks and it “Cleans the car just as good as anything else…” I have used that soap in the past, before I knew better, and found that it does not offer enough lubrication and has harsh cleaners that will strip the wax off of the paint and leave your car unprotected. So don’t skimp on your car wash solution.

A lot of people use the “two bucket method” of washing. This is when they use two buckets.  One bucket filled with water and car shampoo and the other filled with just water.  Use the car shampoo bucket to dip your wash mitt into and the water bucket to rinse the mitt out in.  Simply dip the wash mitt into the shampoo bucket, making sure the mitt is fully soaked, and wash a panel of the car.  When you need more shampoo on the mitt, rinse it out in the water bucket first, before dipping it back into the shampoo bucket.  It is also highly recommended that you use a Grit Guard Insert in your buckets. The Grit Guard keeps the wash mitt out of the dirt that settles to the bottom of the bucket.

Something that is often overlooked is the hose nozzle you use. Use a hose nozzle that has a rubber protector around it incase you accidentally smack it against your paint. You want your nozzle to have the option to give you multiple spray patterns as well. 

 

For the initial hose down of your vehicle you might want to consider using a Foam Gun. The Foam Gun will create a nice foamy lather on your vehicle before you start washing.  Simply add your favorite car shampoo into the foam gun and spray down the entire car or the panel you are working on.  By using the Foam Gun you are creating a nice layer of foam on your vehicle.  This foam helps to lift dirt away from your paint and acts as a lubricated layer.  Having the dirt lifted away from the paint, and having a nice lubricated surface to start with, helps reduce the amount of marring and scratching that occurs when washing.

 

Proper Washing Procedure:
Before you wash the exterior surfaces of the car always clean the tires and wheels first. See our Proper Care For Your Wheels and Tires Section. Cleaning the tires and wheels first prevents you from getting tire and wheel cleaner all over your freshly washed car.

Be sure when washing the vehicle you start from the top and work your way down.  This procedure keeps your from cleaning a lower panel and then rinsing dirty water onto it when cleaning a higher panel.  Using the foam gun cover the roof of the vehicle in a nice foamy lather. Always start at the top of the car using your mitt in a back and forth motion across the paint, not in a circular motion. Make sure that you keep your wash mitt clean and soapy at all times. Once the roof is done rinse it off using a gentle spray.  Next, move down and foam the windows and wash them in the same manor as the roof.  Rinse the windows off using a gentle spray.  Complete the same steps and work down the vehicle until the entire vehicle is cleaned.   Once the car has been washed use a steady stream of water from your nozzle or hose and rinse your vehicle off again using no pressure.  Start at the top of the vehicle and let the water run over the top and down the car.  Continue this step for the entire vehicle.  Most of the water will sheath right off of the paint making drying the vehicle easier. 

Now it’s time to dry the vehicle. To avoid scratches I recommend using a good quality Waffle Weave Drying Towel. Just like when you washed the vehicle, start at the top and work your way down. I fold the waffle weave in quarters flipping it over to a dry side often. If it gets too wet and is not doing as good of a job of drying, simply grab a dry, clean waffle weave drying towel and continue.  If you have water left in nooks and crannies use a Metro Vac N’ Blo or Air Force Blaster to blow the stubborn water out. Once the car is cleaned and dried now it is time to protect the tires (see our Proper Care For Your Wheels and Tires Section ). After you put protectant on the tires then you can go ahead and clean the windows (see our Streak Free Glass Cleaning Section ).